Arrival

It seems like a fitting title, given the circumstances.

Yes, I have arrived in Accra, Ghana and am living in a house full Ghanaian laughter. My family is boisterous and large, with a plethora of incoming and outgoing relatives, "house help" girls that are treated like siblings, the Big Mama of all Big Mamas and now me, an "obruni" as they call the white foreigners. But before I introduce the family, I must tell you about Accra.

Akwaaba! Welcome to Ghana, the land of Sunshine, where Freedom and Justice guide the people.
Though as I write this I realize that the sun is what I have seen the least of since my arrival to an overcast, smoggy, generally hazy Accra. And yes, I must say I miss it. The sky. But, for the myriad of colors and faces and dresses and whir of action, I probably would not find myself sky-gazing all that often anyhow. This place is full of life, full of lush green trees, black and shining people who are always decked out in vibrant fabrics, full of smells- smoke, fuel, body odor, fish, fish, fish, open sewers, humidity, dust-- red dust from the sides of the roads, orangey like powdered Thai tea and contrasted perfectly with the greenery. And emerging from the dust are billboards, advertising Obama, CocaCola, black hair dye (?), and all along the streets are Vodafone adds, the leading cell phone, though competing for frequency are the patriotic colors of Red, Yellow and Green. Along the sides of the roads are people. Walking, biking, balancing baskets of dried plantains, peanuts, sashes of water, toilet paper, sandals, tires, everything and anything you can imagine on their heads, gracefully walking as though their necks were invincible. And the roads themselves? Basic rule: which ever car is fastest and which ever driver is riskiest gets the right of way. Cars slowing for people? Cars using turn signals? Cars staying in their own lanes? Do you WANT to get where you're going? (Whether or not you are alive is a minor factor). Yes. the roads are wild, because the traffic is terrible. If one doesn't accelerate to get the next spot, one might be stuck in the unmoving pile for another fifteen minutes. Accra is definitely another world, yet I am remided of my time in Thailand, which makes it seem like this world is not so large after all. Especailly when my host sister, Abena (not the 1 year old, this one is 14) taugth me the same game as I had learned from the Thais in a remote village- it is basically Jacks with rocks. And of course, being on my email doesn't make anything seem any bigger- except globalization.

So, I leave the Family unmentioned, but that will come in a later post. Know that I am well, I can't believe I have been gone only just over a week, and am very much looking forward to this year... and at the same time miss you all dearly.

One more note- my new name is Afia, meaning Friday born girl. There are basically 7 male and 7 female names in this area, that each person is called by, as well as any other names. One male and female name for each day of the week and you are named depeding on when you are born. Thus there are two Afias, two Abenas, four Kwabenas (at least), etc. in this one household. It makes me feel infintely a part of the clan when little 6 year old Jake/Kwabena retraces his steps through the house yelling "Afia, Afia" when I have lagged behind him, or when Akua says "Afia, you come pound da fufu". Yes, I have found a second, or third, home.